Travelog: Nias

I took an hour flight to Nias and arrive at the small airport on the edge of the island at Gunung Sitoli. Its not much of the city as it is a small place with few shops along the street. When you arrive you’ll be like and idol stars welcome by renting car drivers who try to take a passanger. Its not a formal taxi and you have to negotiate to get the right price till your destination. But once again you have no clue what is the right price for the distance you try to reach. Based on the information I receive from the fellow traveller, from the airport till to Teluk Dalam the place I’m planning to go is round about 300K IDR which is a lot. But seing the surrounding I understand why they put higher price, the distance wuite long and there is not much option for public transportation.

Sunset at Sorake beach, Nias

I pretend waiting for a friend to pick me up to reduce the crowd and one driver start approaching me and we negotiate the price. They dont drive alone so it kind allert me as we entering car, but lucky they are just doin fine. The ride just like crossing the yard, so many empty spaces and field along the way, the mainroad itsefl only able to fit two cars widht. You can see coconut trees all over, some houses appears here and there. And since I havent have my lunch they took me to one of the cafe shop that provide food. So we stop for a while to have lunch. The trip itself will take 4 hours ride so we get back to the car and continue our journey. I didnt want to stranded in the middle of new place after dark ah (yes, I still thinking about my safety ah).

The main road in Nias
Road in Nias

The ride it just like a never ending ride, I see signs of churches along the street as the majority of the people in Nias is Christian and there is a lot of porks too. We pass another city known as Teluk Dalam around afternoon but seems my destination is still another hour from there since I went to the recommended place by Rafa. The place is located in front of the beach so when I see the bungalow for the first time, thats OMG kinda feeling is tucking in as you see the sunset is really just around the corner of your room.

My beautiful small bungalow at Sorake beach, Nias

The hostel owner is a couple with their lil adopt son, originally they have four children but all of them are staying in the other island. They only have 4 bungalows and you can dine for lunch or dinner in with additional cost. Compare to the other place, its quite tighting my budget staying in this place but seeing the other neighbourhood this is still the best place I want to stay at Sorake beach.

How can you not fall in love with the place, Sorake beach, Nias

I love the view so much, the beach is not that quite sandy due to the big earthquke which shaken the core of the island and shift some reef on the corner of Nias up in several place, so the beach have a really long walking place above the dead reef before reaching the lips of the big wave. I spend every morning and afternoon walking around the reef, either waiting for the sunrise which just accross my door or take a lil bit turn to watch the sunset at the afternoon. I’m staying really at the below tip of the island so you can get both either sunrise or sunset sky. For me sunset is the best part as the color is so amazing everyday, especially if they accompanied by crazy clouds which double the beautifulness.

Another sunset at Sorake beach, Nias

The only problem around is no public transportation and either you rent a car or motorbike to go, you have to rent it for a day which could cost you a lot. In here everything is more expensive especially once they recognized you come from outside the island. They will knocking your bungallow door offering from lobster, fish, souvenirs or asking for a drink (I’m survive this!). I rent another motrobike guide in here to take me to Teluk Dalam and visit few places, such as the famous Bawomataluo village famously know for their jumping stone tradition. The quality of the guide is lower compare to the one who took me around in Sumatera Barat, they just need to improve their service as I only go to two place and he already busy wants to go back because its hot. Seeing the condition manytimes I have to explain I need to go here here and here before we go that day, but still sometimes he become grumpy. I think the bad side travelling solo is you spend more on transportation and accomodation without someone to share with.

Bawomataluo village, Nias
The King’s house at Bawamataluo village, Nias

Though all the complexity of the situation around, I really enjoying my stay. The owner cook delicious meal everyday. And I could ask her to cook the lobster I bought from the morning fisherman for dinner and its yummy. Time is just running slowly like the one I spend in Harau valley but with different view. I love the clean blue sky in front of the bungalow with the sheep clouds, the beach smell and you can easily dig somewhere under the reef to catch some clam to boiled. I feel myself getting much better emotionally during this trip because you have so much time to clear your head and re-arrange what is the next thing you want to do after the trip. Letting go all the bad feeling after working for so long and feel unappreciated.

The war dance costume, Bawamataluo Village, Nias

I took a visit to Bawomataluo village for the first time and you need to pay the entrance fee, not much is about 5K IDR but if you want to see someone jumping up the stone you need to pay more around 150K ‘head poke’ but then I ended up talking to the man who stay at the King’s house and he say there will be a ceremony within few weeks so I’m planning to stay by then to see the festival. We change number to make it easy to communicate and he did inform me. At the mention day, it just like another birthday gift since I get a chance to watch 2 full ceremony which is sponsored by some company doing ceremonial in that village. The village people wearing their traditional costumes, lots of them since they were showing their war dance and jumping up the stone many times. And I watch this from the second floor of the King’s house. Its a really amazing experience to see and hear it by yourself. There is no enuf words I can express when I watch this and make me love my country more as they have so many beautiful culture and tradition. I spend the day till the ceremony is complete and goin back with an awesome feeling.

The festive at bawamataluo village, Nias
Stone jumping tradition, Bawamataluo village, Nias

When I get back, the owner sense my excitement and tell me that I’m blessed because not everyone could have a chance to see the ceremony completely and twice. Because it takes a budget to pay all the dancer and performer to do such a show. So yes, I am a lucky girl.


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